Planted above Lake Geneva, the Lavaux Vineyard offers unparalleled views of the lake and the mountains. Enjoy it without moderation at harvest time.
Stepped between 375 m and 620 m above sea level, the vineyards overlook Lake Geneva. In places, the slope is so steep that one wonders if they will not let go. But it is solid, provided by tens of thousands of terraces, themselves supported by 400 kilometers of stone walls. In Lavaux, winemakers are also Masons. The first officiated in the eleventh century, clearing the road before the vertical shape with a lot of stone Meillerie, hard limestone quarried on the opposite bank (Haute-Savoie today) and transported by ship. They had faith it was Benedictine and Cistercian monks. They signed here a masterpiece, complete with a luxurious exhibition.
Located on the sunny side of the Vaud Alps, this vineyard is a great solar collector. Fell from the sky or reflected by the lake, heat stored by the stone walls rays, nothing escapes him, it is called "the Land of Three Suns". It is also a balcony big show on the water and lights of Geneva, and the mountain symphony orchestrated by the French Chablais and the eternal snows of Valais.


However, these vines in 3D are a handkerchief, only 830 ha, barely 15 km from west to east, between Lutry, at the door of Lausanne and Vevey, the jewel of the Swiss Riviera. Whatever, small is beautiful, and Unesco has fallen for this site strewn with fourteen lovely old wine villages. In 2007, it was therefore classified as "cultural landscape", alongside a handful of other wineries, all larger and more famous than him, starting with the 5400 ha of the famous Saint-Emilion.
• Superstar Chasselas

Epesses. (© samuelbitton.com)
For Lavaux, this recognition was a blessing. Since then, wine tourism is organized and, most importantly, it has piqued the curiosity of strangers, often philistine for Swiss wines. And for good reason: they are almost impossible to find outside of Confederation. The 15,000 hectares of vines in the country (by comparison, only 117,000 Bordelais account) are not even enough for domestic consumption and another obstacle to exporting, production costs are high because labor is expensive.
More reason to get out there to see if the wine taste good. White fans will be delighted. That's roughly 80% of the AOC lavaux. Grape variety: Chasselas. A discovery that nectar from a grape that is more in France, used to chew. "For us, it replaces appetizers. But we also drink while eating. And because its acidity is very low, it will be better tomorrow puts the party ... "smiles Patrick Fonjallaz, who farms in Epesses the vineyard of his ancestors. Founded in 1552, the Clos de la Republic is also the oldest family business in Switzerland all specialties. With 37 ha and an annual crop of 280,000 bottles, this is also one of the largest areas of Lavaux. His beautiful wine house throne in the heart of the village, decorated with a panoramic paradise conducive to tasting.
Another revelation on Chasselas, this grape, whose real name "Red Chasselas splitting" is also that of splitting Valais. "Here, when the grape is not listed on a bottle of white, it is mandatory Chasselas" says Bernard Chevalley, operator of the eponymous small area (a little over 2 acres and about 20,000 bottles a year) in his family for four generations. His house is on the site of the Church of St. Saphorin, a medieval gem, the prettiest village in the area. On the ground floor, between cellar and press, we taste wine.
• The drink in the cellar

(© Didier Jordan)
On certain days or by appointment, some 80 areas welcome visitors. Warm and friendly atmosphere. Owners and operators for the most winemakers willingly tell their wine saga. Thus, Grandvaux Maude Vogel, thirties and recently at the helm, with his brother Simon, Cross Domain Duplex (12 ha and 12,000 bottles). On the long panoramic terrace of the new tasting room, the young woman talks about her fabulous grandfather, a Bernese hydraulic engineer: "Come to work, he had a heart for the area and stayed. Already wine lover, he bought three hectares of vineyards, released its first vintage in 1920 and designed and built the house himself. "
The wine tastes as in the vaults. Every village has one, held over the weekend by a different winemaker who has his production. Open Friday (possibly as soon as Thursday) through Sunday between 17 and 21 hours, these tombs are the right plan for cocktails. Lavaux Vinorama also worth a visit. Inaugurated in 2010, this modern wine cellar carved into the rock by the lake, between Cully and Rivaz, displays more than 260 wines. Enjoy it on site and served by sommeliers and commented. Or take away, though charged - you will be notified immediately - 20% more expensive than the producers (about 4-8 euros for a Chasselas 2013). But do not miss the projected loop in the next room movie: a short film as informative as poetic about the four seasons of the vineyard and the winemaker.
• Follow the guides


Natural side, World Heritage Lavaux also innovated by training guides. From May to late September, the "GPL" (Heritage Guides Lavaux), sports and savvy wine, history, geography, geology ... take every Saturday the wine tourists hiking through vineyards for two hours (12 €). Better, we can throughout the year, hire a guide and benefit from a tailor-made itinerary for a few hours or the day. (128 € to 292 €).
GPL will also guide you during the harvest, explaining without pop, the work that takes place before your eyes. This is the only benefit, as no specific program is still expected at this time. But everyone can see the show in the vineyards as well as pressing grapes. "As long as the door is open to the press, people can come in," we were told winemakers.
Depending on the size of the area, the harvest lasts between one and three weeks. Kick-off end of September. And, as before, without mechanization, steep terrain requires. Hand-picked, the grapes are transported on their backs to the nearest wine path. And there is little more than thirty years as plastic crates have replaced the heavy wooden Brantes. Still 15 kg each when full, these boxes are also carried by three or four at a time: the pickers are sturdy.
Once on the road, they unload their precious cargo in containers of 500 kg. Then, back to modern times, the bins will be hoisted with a crane on trailers ATV towards the press. Finally, do not be surprised to hear the buzz sky: it's a helicopter coaffrété by several winemakers who evacuated in 30 seconds flat, grapes of high slopes.


GO. TGV Lyria-to Lausanne from Paris (3 h 30), Dijon, Dole, Frasne. Then ten to twenty minute drive or train. www.voyage-sncf.com Or fly to Geneva from Paris and province, then an hour's drive or train, www.airfrance.fr, www.swiss.com, www.easyjet.com
Roll over. The "wine route" or "small ledge" (prohibited for trucks), and between Lutry Chexbres via Riex and Epesses. Or until the end of October, on vineyard roads on small tourist trains, € 12 per ride. www.lavauxexpress.ch
BROWSE. Panoramic views of the vineyard, the time for a lunch cruise "Belle Epoque" Switzerland aboard a sternwheeler 1910 menu from 37 €, Lausanne-Ouchy boarding. .: Tel + 41 848 811 848 and www.cgn.ch
TO STEP. In the vineyard, the Inn of the 3-star Granvaux station, reception and table top, € 165 for two with breakfast, € 36 perch fillets anthology. .: Tel + 41 21 799 26 86 and www.aubergegrandvaux.ch. Or 4-star Hotel Lavaux Cully for lighting design (from 148 € facing the lake) and the terrace lounge on the roof. .: Tel + 41 21 799 93 93 and www.hotellavaux.ch
Both hotels offer transportation card for the train that serves the villages of Lavaux. Finally, mandatory rotisserie Auberge de l'Onde (eighteenth century) dinner at St. Saphorin menu from 70 € with wine tasting lesson taught by sommelier Jerome Aké Beda, author of 99 Chasselas that must have been drinking before he died. .: Tel + 41 21 925 49 00 and www.aubergedelonde.ch Option Riviera in Vevey, the Three Crowns Hotel, the historic palace (1842), 71 rooms and suites (from 362 €), table Star , gorgeous terrace, spa with pool ... lively. .: Tel + 41 21 923 32 00 and www.hoteltroiscouronnes.ch